Step-by-step

Epiphany – Galette part 2

By | Epiphany, Galette des Rois, Step-by-step | No Comments

Well I hope you have leapt out of bed and gave your puff pastry two more rolls this morning. Now you are ready to make the galette.

Pop it back in the refrigerator and take out the almond filling. It will be firmer, but still sticky. Place it between two pieces of plastic wrap and roll or pat it into a 23cm / 9in circle. Slide it onto a baking sheet and pop it back in the refrigerator. Now find une fève or dried bean. As you can see, if you click the link, you can use almost anything, I use a dried kidney bean, you need something with contrasting colour to the filling, and look for the biggest bean you have, so that it isn’t swallowed by accident, yes it has happened to me, and then you’re left without a king or queen!
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Cut your puff pastry in half and roll into two squares, about 28cm / 11in, then cut out two circles, one 25cm / 10in, and the other 26cm / 101/2in in diameter. (If you find the pastry elastic, springing back on itself, then simply return it to the refrigerator and let it rest). Now, you are probably saying I don’t have the fancy metal discs for measuring the circle, I think this is the only time I use them. Be creative, the top of a cake tin, the bottom of a springform pan, or if you can’t find anything cut a cardboard circle. Keep the trimmings, you can freeze them, to make palmiers p 60.

IMG_1864
Turn the 25cm pastry circle over and place on the prepared baking sheet. (Turning the cut pastry over helps it to rise more evenly).
Remove the plastic wrap from the top of the almond circle and centre it on the pastry. (In the book, I place a layer of drained, cooked rhubarb, which adds colour and tartness, but this year I am staying very traditional). The almond mixture will still be soft, by keeping the plastic on it you can move it more easily. You can also smooth and adjust it with a spatula. Remove the plastic wrap, insert the bean, and  brush the edges of the pastry circle with egg wash, remember you set it aside yesterday.

Now flip the larger pastry circle and place on top.  Press to seal very well, trimming the top circle if necessary. Scallop the edges with the back of a knife and cut a steam vent in the top. Using a sharp knife, gently score the top of the pastry by cutting curving lines form the center steam vent to the edge.
IMG_1865
Brush with egg wash and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and preferably one hour. (Be careful not to get the egg wash on the cut edges of the pastry, as it will stop it from rising).

Heat the oven to 220C /425F.
Brush the galette with egg wash again and bake until the pastry is puffed and dark golden brown, 30 to 40 minutes. Cool on a rack and serve at room temperature. And you should have something that looks like this and even if it doesn’t it will taste good. Now all you need is a crown for your king or queen.

Galette-des-rois

The day before Epiphany-Galette part 1

By | Epiphany, Galette des Rois, Step-by-step | 4 Comments

If you follow this blog you will know that I have written about galette des rois before. So instead of recounting the history of this cake, this post is a practical how to make one, no need to buy the book Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, with RecipesIf you have the book the recipe is p 64.

First you need puff pastry. You’re probably tempted to buy it, thinking it was too hard to make, well don’t and you’re wrong. Puff pastry is simple it just take time and while you are waiting for the pastry you can make the filling, which must be made in advance and then go back to checking your Twitter feed.

You need a cool kitchen and a set of scales. Mix 250g / 83/4 oz flour with 1 teaspoon fine sea salt. Now weigh out the same amount of unsalted butter, then take about 30g / 1oz of the butter and rub it into the flour until mealy. Take 150ml / 2/3 cup of ice water, the advantage of living in Toronto in the winter, is that the water straight from the tap is ice cold, add a squeeze of lemon juice to the water and pour it over the flour mixture. Stir with a fork until the liquid is mixed in, then tip the mixture onto a cool surface.
Don’t be tempted to add more water even though it looks like you haven’t added enough.

Knead it,  gathering up all the flour until, it forms a ball. Do this gently and it will come together in a couple of minutes. It should look something like this.

IMG_1845

Cut a cross in the top of the dough, then wrap and refrigerate for about 10 minutes.

IMG_1846

Meanwhile,  attack the butter. place it between two sheets of parchment or was paper and beat it with a rolling pin, good for working out stress, until the butter is pliable. Shape it into a rough 15cm / 6in square. The reason for doing this is twofold: to shape the butter and have it the same consistency as the dough. Test the dough and the butter by pushing your finger into them, they should have the same consistency. If necessary, place the dough back into the refrigerator.

IMG_1847

Rolling between the cross, roll out 4 flaps of dough, leaving the centre four times as thick as the flaps. Try to roll a rough square about 30cm / 12 in. Place the butter on top of the thicker dough centre, so it sits as a diamond on the square dough.

IMG_1850
Now fold over the flaps to enclose the dough and to make four layers on top of the butter and a square about 30cm / 12 in.
IMG_1852

Tap the pastry square firmly with your rolling pin to seal the edges and flatten slightly.

IMG_1853

Roll into a rectangle about 45×15 cm / 18×6 in trying to keep the edges of the pastry as straight as you can. Now fold the pastry into three, from the short end, as you would fold a letter, then turn the pastry 90 degrees so the open end is towards you. Tap the pastry with the rolling pin to seal and flatten.

IMG_1855

Roll out again into a rectangle and fold into three. Press two fingers into the pastry to indicate that you have given it two turns. Wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

IMG_1856

While you are waiting you can make the filling for the galette. It is a frangipane, a rich almond filling that needs to be refrigerated overnight to firm up.

You need 100g / 31/2oz each of unsalted butter, caster (superfine) sugar and ground almonds, a pinch of fine sea salt, 2 tablespoons flour, 2 eggs and 1 tablespoon aged rum or Cognac. Place the butter, sugar and salt in a food processor and process until well mixed. Add the almonds, and flour and process to blend. Whisk the eggs, then set aside two tablespoons of egg mixture (this will be for the egg wash so cover ad refrigerate). Add the rum to the remaining egg mixture and pour over the almond mixture. Process until well mixed. It will resemble a batter, turn into a bowl, then cover and refrigerate overnight.

Take your pastry out of the refrigerator and let it warm up to room temperature and roll it into a rectangle again, fold it and turn at as before, so giving it another two turns. Cover and refrigerate overnight. The puff pastry needs two more rollings before using. You could continue the rolling after letting it rest at least one hour, in the refrigerator, but you would have had to make the filling the day before.

So check back tomorrow (Epiphany) for part 2.

Red Currants + Raspberries

By | Step-by-step, summer, Summer cooking | No Comments
This is the time to make summer pudding, as both red currants and raspberries are in the markets or ripening in your backyard, if your lucky. Many people throw any combination of berries into summer pudding, but it is best when made with only raspberries and red currants in a 3 to 1 ratio. It requires little heat, so perfect for a hot summer day. Make it a couple of days before you want to serve it. It keeps for several days in the refrigerator and also freezers well, but remember to line the bowl with plastic wrap first if the pudding is destined for the freezer.
You’ll need bread, I like egg bread or challah, but any quality white bread will do, not too fresh, I always check the day old bin at my local bakery. A bowl, my ceramic pudding basin is perfect and holds my mixture of 600g raspberries, 200g red currants off the stem, rinsed, and 200g sugar. Place the damp berries and sugar in a frying pan over low heat and stir from time to time until the berries soften and the sugar is dissolves. Meanwhile, cut the crusts off the bread, and line the bowl with bread and set the bowl in a pie dish to catch any drips.
 Summer-Pudding-BSummer-Pudding-C
Fill the bowl with the fruit mixture, reserving any left over syrup. Top the pudding with more bread.
 Summer-Pudding-E

Pour over the remaining syrup allowing it to soak into the bread. Cover with plastic wrap, top with a plate, weight down (yet another use for my homemade sauerkraut) and refrigerate at least 24 hours. Remove the weight and plate.

Summer-pudding-G

When ready to serve, turn out onto a plate and carefully cut into servings with a bread knife. It’s good with whipped cream but doesn’t really need it. Once cut the pudding looses its structural integrity and will start to sag, Putting the bowl back over it will help hold it together if you have any leftovers.

Why is it called summer pudding? Because of its resemblance to a steamed pudding.

And while we are on names why is making an irreverent sound with your tongue and lips called a raspberry?  In the nineteenth century English rhyming slang “raspberry tart” is rhyming slang for a fart.

Rendering Step-by-Step

By | Fat, Lard, Pork Fat, Rendering, Step-by-step | 25 Comments

This post will show exactly how I render fat. In this example it is pork fat, but the principle is the same for all fats. The fat is cut into 1-inch/2.5cm pieces as you can see in the large photo. You can cut them smaller and speed up the process slightly. Water is added about 1/3 cup /75ml per 1lb /450g of fat . I have about 2.6 lb /1.2kg of fat here so I added just over 1 cup/250ml. Now it goes in the oven at 250F/120C.

IMG_0008

This is the pan after 30 minutes. You can see the fat has melted a bit and you can see the water in the pan. It pays to have a thermometer in your oven they are not always accurate at low temperature.

IMG_0033

Now 2 hours later (2 1/2 hours since the start). The fat is melting but there are still big pieces. Stir the fat and press the larger pieces against the side of the pot so they break up.

IMG_0041

Another 2 1/2 hours have passed (5 hours total). Note the fat is not all melted.

IMG_0001

Here it is 2 hours later. This is the time to strain before the fat starts to colour. This has taken 7 hours.

IMG_00031

Here is the fat in a very fine strainer over a glass-measuring cup. As you can see there are only a few lightly coloured pieces. Once the fat is drained you can return these fat pieces to your pan and continue to render. You will obtain a little more fat but it will be stronger in flavour.

IMG_0011

Here is a wonky view of the fat in the measuring cup. My fat yielded a little over 4 cups/1l. It was also clearer the flash has added a golden tone.

IMG_0019

Here it is chilled and you can see it is creamy white, perfect for everything from pastry to deep-frying.

IMG_0021

I turned the glass upside down to show you that you will probably get some deposit that shouldn’t be left with your fat. It could be used in a pork dish; it is a light pork jelly.

That’s it very straight forward. All you need is time, and to look at the fat from time to time and, most importantly make sure your oven is not too hot.